gosh that's pretty hard to try and pick out some since it's been about 6 months since I've seriously played. There are just tons of content mods that will just add MORE stuff to the game, which I find the vanilla game to be pretty bland. There are multiple mod packs that can turn it into an RPG experience, but then there's also mod packs that expand the crafting system into the autistic levels of mechanics.
note that I didn't check compatibility for any of those and what the current ver of minecraft is, but figured I'd give you those so you can at least get an idea if you want to pursue them. I'll have to ask my 8 year old sister what mods are good since she's spent the last 4 months of her life delved into minecraft.
I'm not a lover of heavy modding of the game, but I do use a texture pack (PureBDCraft), and I use a minimap (VoxelMap), as it rapidly becomes impossible to keep track of where things are.
OH, yeah, a minimap is super good. Texture modding is hit or miss with me, since most of them try too hard to be real and others are just washed out vanilla textures. I always stuck with default honestly.
Yeah, the map I mentioned even marks your death spot as a temporary waypoint that you can delete later.
As for textures, that's why I use PureBDCraft. It makes everything look like a comic. I'm not a fan of the realism ones either - not that my computer would run them anyway.
Oh, I forgot, I also use Optifine, which has loads of advanced graphics options, but, more importantly, gives a major boost to your FPS, and minimises those laggy moments when the world is loading.
Iirc DJ has a pretty good beast, but OptiFine does include some nice tweaks to make the game look even nicer for beefier computers. My only problem with it is it's still a few versions behind, can't remember if it's anything major though.